Special family dinner: pasta with chanterelles and truffled cream; “long-cooked kale, please” – 6 January 2015

D&R&I are having one last cook as our “little family.” We had a great time and cooked some excellent dishes, although we agreed that they didn’t go that well together. main150106-1The first chosen was a pasta from Saveur, called Tagliatelle with Black Truffle Cream Sauce, which includes chanterelles and a lot of other luxury items. We did this pretty much according to the linked recipe, except that we used a pasta from La Cucina Italiana that I described previously. setting150106D made the pasta and thinks the kitchen scale was off, b/c we used only half of it for this dinner (for 3 of us) and had to add water this time. I rolled half the dough (in 3 batches) to thickness “4” on our Altas pasta maker, and hand cut it into wide strips. I infused the cream (2 hours instead of 6, aided by low heating) prepped the chanterelles, to a remarkable degree of cleanliness, even though they didn’t look it, and D did most of the cooking of the sauce.

main150106-2I also stemmed and washed up one of the two bunches of dinosaur kale for the veggie dish, and D stemmed the other, unfortunately running across some decayed leaves in the process. But we got a good batch of kale for the dish. This is from David Tanis’s “One Good Dish,” a cookbook that I bought immediately upon seeing it, b/c it looks like the kind of food we actually eat. This recipe was the first we’ve cooked from it, and it was a major hit, though too forward and too salty to be a good accompaniment for the pasta. This is 1/2 recipe: heat 1 1/2 Tbsp olive oil in a heavy pan (used Le Creuset from Urban Ore) over med-hi heat; add 1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced, season with salt and pepper, and cook till softened, about 5 minutes. prep150106Don’t let them brown too much — adjust heat as needed. Add 1/4 lb (we used about .3lb – a whole sausage) Spanish chorizo, cut into 1/2″ slices, and half of “a generous pinch” [used the old Restoration Hardware spoon for “smidgen” and domed it a bit] of crushed red pepper flakes. Cook 2 mins. Cut the cleaned, stemmed, and double-washed kale into 2″ lengths, and add to the pan by handfuls, lightly salting each one after adding. [Note that the amount of salt you add is inversely proportional to the size you consider a “handful.”] Turn the heat to high and stir with a wooden spoon to help the greens wilt. Then add 1/2 cup water (we added more, but perhaps too much) and continue to stri till it is simmering briskly. Cover, turn heat to low. “It should be rather brothy” – add more water if necessary.lagniappe150106

[150614: The Jan. draft stops here, so the rest is filled in from memory and from photos.]

bread150106I see we had a photogenic loaf of Acme Pain au Levain…

wine150106and that we had, unsurprisingly, two wines, no doubt the white La Citadelle Le Chataignier, a Luberon (Wine Mine, $11, Eric Stauffenegger import) before dinner and for the pasta course, the Acorn 2008 Dolcetto from Alegria Vineyards (winery, $lots) with the sausage/kale dish. We have notes to buy more of the La Citadelle but it was gone when we got back. Have a nice stash of Acorn wines in the cellar 🙂

Of course, R brought dessert. It was a stack of somewhat crispy (hard to cut neatly) cookie-like layers with frosting in between and a sauce poured over the top. Asked about this six months later, R says: “IIRC it has a coffee glaze, a cardamommy cookie, and maybe fig or prune as the main ingredient of the filling.” I will try to find it.

Woot! Success! http://www.saveur.com/article/recipes/shortbread-and-prune-jam-layer-cake


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1 Response to Special family dinner: pasta with chanterelles and truffled cream; “long-cooked kale, please” – 6 January 2015

  1. Pingback: Brined rosemary pork chops; long-cooked kale – 9 Jan 2016 | A Dinner Blog

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